Went to Uluru today. We have all seen pictures, but nothing prepares you for the reality – especially the way that it rises, without fuss, directly from the flat desert floor. There’s nothing else for miles, then suddenly this gigantic red rock. Actually, the red colour is iron oxide staining what would otherwise be a much less attractive grey rock. Try selling pictures of that! Higher than the Eiffel Tower, it was laid down 640 million years ago (or less than 5,000 years ago if you go to school in Kansas). There are algal deposits down the sides, from running water – it rains there from time to time – and a couple of decent waterholes. The bloodwood trees were in bloom, because it rained a few days ago; they don’t bloom on a seasonal cycle, they just wait for it to rain, then off they go.

The purpose of the trip was to see the monolith at sunset, and I have enclosed a pic of this – pretty good, no? No wonder the local indigenous folk attribute all sorts of magic to it. Parts of it, sacred to the Anunga, are out of bounds, and this is respected by the tour operators.

To Kata Tjuta. Formerly known as The Olgas, discovered in 1872 by explorer Ernest Giles, and named for Queen Olga of Württemburg, Kata Tjuta is a series of sandstone and basalt domes. Bigger than Uluru, though made of several individual pieces, not just the one. Walked the Walpa Gorge; not strictly a gorge so much as the crevice between two of the domes. Stunning scenery, parrots in the trees, and camel poo on the track.

Tjuta, Uluru, and Mount Conner, collectively the three monoliths of Central Kata Australia, are all that’s left of the once-mighty Petermann range, the rest now eroded completely away.

Haven’t seen a kangaroo yet, other than a dead one beside the road, but did see some wild camels. They are the descendents of those introduced to the country as draught animals, but which, their career cut short by the arrival of the railway were released into the wild. There are also wild horses, called brumbies, but we didn’t see any.

Took the bus to Kings Canyon, 300 km up the Lasseter Highway. 300 km without passing a single habitation. Surprisingly verdant though – they’ve had some decent rains, following fires, perfect conditions for new growth. Stopped en route at the International Coach Station of Central Australia – in reality a pull-in near a crossroads where, by prior arrangement, passengers are transferred between buses. A practical arrangement, given the emptiness of the terrain.

Just before Kings Canyon, we stopped at Kings Creek Station. ‘Station’ in this context means something close to ‘ranch’. This one farms camels, and caters to the passing trade between Ayers Rock and Alice Springs. This is the real outback, lacking, how can I put this, sophistication. If you felt in need of a camelburger, this is the place to come. Their coffee very good though.

Overnight at Kings Canyon resort, and on to Alice Springs tomorrow.